Because of its history, the central pillar of Freney, on the Mont Blanc South face, is a mythical route. It’s about the 10th time I go to Chamonix with the dream to climb it but it is never in good conditions. Two times I arrive near the base but can’t climb it because of weather and because of tiredness. This time, 4 days of good weather are announced. Anne and I decided to try it.
One afternoon to the refuge Monzino and sleep in the winter shelter, we arrived the next day at the pretty cosy Eccles bivi early on the afternoon and began to cook and rest. A bit of snow felt before the night but nothing to worry about.
We wake up at 2h45, I went out for a technical action… everything is white… snow felt during the night and the rock was covered with snow, even the vertical parts… In my mind, I knew that the central Pillar of Freney wouldn’t be for this year… mountain rules, it’s the 3rd time I have to do something else. Disappointed? Well no!! Being in mountains especially with Anne is so nice!!
We climbed the Innominata ridge, a nice mixed climbing route I already did 2 years ago with two friends. This time was different, we had not wind, bad snow and we took our time to rest and cook 😉 It was very enjoying to be the only climbers on this Mont Blanc face! We were alone for 3 days!
At 4pm, first Mont Blanc for Anne!! Congrats!!
Well, 3800m to go down. We did it in two days with a night on the Gouter refuge.